I've only got five left alive. Four of them are game rosters that fight. Spurs everywhere.
Rape alley in my chuck houses. Really fertile eggs.
Diansours in the Garden
Diane Sours in the garden? Who is she?
I noticed several of you talk about the roosters SPURS.
They're very easy to remove [trim].
Just sit that boy down in your lap,,,,and w/ a pair of channel locks / slip joint pliers.....grab the spur firmly at its base and give a 1/4 turn twist....then pull off.
What's left is the "quick"....it may show a streak or two of blood, so don't put him right back in w/ his girls for a day or so.
If ya do this often enough, those spurs won't grow so long
R/T 1:20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTnTqJ-m_Io
. summerthyme summerthyme is offline
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I just don't bother removing spurs. For one thing, it takes a coupje years for them to grow them big and sharp enough to csuse damage. Inbreeding problems in chickens are concerning enough that keeping a breeding roo for more than 2 years is asking for problems.
I've only got five left alive. Four of them are game rosters that fight. Spurs everywhere.
Rape alley in my chuck houses. Really fertile eggs.
As always, you speak and I learn something new! This time, it's the two year rule of thumb for any given rooster.
....hope its ok to post tomthis thread...if not, my apologies, and no worries, I can find my way to the corner lol!
Not my first rodeo, sad to say.
Ah, having rosters is better than having a load of lesbians hens pretending to have a roster.
I didn't see your response until now. The "two year rule" is, of course, if you are actually using him for breeding and propagating the flock. Inbreeding depression shows up in reduced hatchability, weak chicks, and-in those who survive- l9wer production.
If you only want a roo for flock protection, you can keep them as long as you want. I had to butcher a 5 year old Welp's Sliw White broiler roo at 5 years because he was getting too big and heavy, and was spending modt of his time sitting down. He dressed at 14#! I guess he had reason for his legs not holding him! But he was always a perfect gentleman, and I had others I was able to rotate for reproduction, so he stayed.
Summerthyme
They're really nice birds. I prefer the CornishX for meat, but if we didn't have customers for the CornishX, and had to use 25 meat chickens ourselves, I'd probably stop buying them and just keep Slow Whites for eggs and meat. The biggest dfference is breast size... the Slow White carcass at the same weight as a CornishX is probably 6" longer, so the breasts are significantly thinner. Very tasty meat, though, and I think, a little firmer. Not tough (butchered at the appropriate sge, of course), but probably more like the old fashioned types.
Summerthyme
Since we switched to raising the CornishX on pasture, we've eliminated almost all those problems. We use an old junk horse trailer for shelter. Hubby rigged it up with a float bucket waterer, which connects either to hoses and a barn faucet, or if we're pasturing them more than 250' away from the barn, a water tank on wheels. We use 180 feet of electronettig and a solar fencer. This is plenty for up to 125 birds, moving it once a week to clean ground.
They eat grass and bugs, as well as free choice (for 12 hours... fast them the other 12, or they'll est themselves to death) grain. This year, i designed and made clear vinyl "tents" to slide over the hangers hubby built to hang the feeders... it worked like a charm, not only keeping the grain dry, but completely stopping the English Sparrows from raiding the grain. (For sone reason, they always fly into the top of the feeders to feed, not eating from the trough part... dunno why.
No breast blisters, no filthy feathers (although they do get a bit grass stained!) and out of over 500 birds in the past 3 years, only one cripple, which we think was an injury.. got trampled as a fairly young chick. They move around a lot more, chasing crickets and other insects, than they ever did being raised in a pen.
But yes, extreme heat is a problem. I made a shade "tent" out of a stock panel bent in a semi-circle and covered it with sone bargain light gray knit fabric I had around... it definitely helped. But two years ago, we had two birds die of hesrt attzcks ehile we were loading them to take to be butchered... we beheaded them and hung them on a fencepost to bleed out and sent them home with our Amish hired man as a "bonus".
If you like breast meat, they can't be beat... our birds average 1 3/4 to 2# of boneless breast off a 5-6# bird.
We've had really good luck with Welp's strain of CornishX. We often have ZERO death loss after the first 24 hours, and last year, I ordered 115 birds. They shipped 119, and we butchered 118. The single loss was DOA in the box.
And the one year they were delivered 2 days late and we lost over 40 in the first 6 hours, they sent a complete replacement order the following week.
My sole complaint about Welp Hatchery is they must ship the CornishX from a separate farm... you can't mix them with either layers or Slow Whites when you order.
Summerthyme
If you only want eggs for eating, roosters aren't necessary. Millions of male chicks from commercial egg laying breeds (primarily Leghorns) are killed as soon as they're hatched.
But for a small farm flock, they help protect the hens, preserve a natural social structure, and -of course- breed the hens so the eggs are fertile and can be hatched if desired.
Summerthyme
And yeah, warning about the dangers of chickens in Australia is a bit ironic, but then, I guess most peopke who live tgere already know about the crocs and funnel web spiders...
Well, people should always be on guard against violent peckers....