Dec 9th: American War Memorial (Part 1)
I’m not sure what to make of our morning explorations at the American War Memorial. It is why we are here. I thought. But apparently we are here to look at the entire Northern Marianas Islands while sticking primarily to Saipan.
The way I am understanding it is that Saipan used to be a “major” tourist destination. In the 1980s and 90s the tourism from Japan began to tapper off. Then came in the Chinese and Koreans but they didn’t spend money anything like the Japanese tourists did. Then the tourism industry was racked by storms and then the pandemic of the 20’s nearly killed the island’s economy off the way it did much of the rest of the world. And while the world recovered, Saipan did not. Even years later they are still struggling, and the US government wants them to become more self-sufficient. There is some resistance to that as too many people have become willingly dependent on US federal assistance, but this administration seems determined to get their economy back up and running even if that requires painful physical and financial therapy to force it on them. I didn’t have a lot of time to contemplate today’s issues because our guide was so busy keeping us in the past.
At 0840 on June 15, 1944, initial waves of the 2nd and 4th U.S. Marine Divisions stormed onto a narrow beachhead on Saipan. The enemy guns were ranged-in on the beaches and shells rained down with deadly effect. Marine units, supported by Naval and Army Air Corps bombardment, and joined by the U.S. Army's 27th Infantry Division, waged savage warfare. For most of the soldiers, seamen, and airmen it was yet another invasion. For many it would be their last. For the world it was the beginning of the end of the Pacific War.
Even people of my generation are taught that the Marianas Campaign of World War II was the most decisive battle of the Pacific Theater. With Saipan secured on July 9th, U.S. Forces were able to cut off vital Japanese supply and communication lines, and American B-29 bombers moved within range of the Japanese homeland. The end of the war with Japan followed 14 months later.
We were all over Saipan today. From Marpi to Mt. Tapotchao to Aslito Airfield, the American Memorial Park maintains 12 waysides to mark the location of historical events that took place on the island in 1944. Benny and I got a kick out of me calling them “sign thingies” the way we used to but when we explained what we were laughing at, only Lev grinned. The sign-thingies (so there you grouchy people) describe events such as the maneuvers of both American and Japanese troops, points of interest such as artifacts and architectural remnants, and the location of camps.
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This morning’s sightseeing was done via a downhill bike ride that took us to three major sites on the island: Suicide Cliff, Last Command Post, and Bird Island. Based on what I was seeing, I wasn’t sure how the guys were going to come up with enough for an entire episode on the American War Memorial park, but the afternoon was for other things.
We spent the remainder of the day hiking. The first one was called “Old Man By the Sea.” It is a “family-friendly hike” suitable for a wide range of ages and experience levels. Quote, unquote. It ended at a secluded location with an easily-identifiable landmark. Yep, Saipan directions are primarily via landmark the same as Guam. Getting mail to the right people must be fun for the postal service.
I estimate the hike itself can take as little as fifteen minutes or as long as forty-five, depending on how comfortable a hiker is with the rocks, vines, and twisted trees. Parts of the trail were difficult, but the ropes to helped along the way. Although we reached a beach at the end of the trail, it’s not ideal for snorkeling. Benny and I were a little disappointed but better safe than sorry.
Compared to our other hikes, this wasn’t a long one but the whole jungle vibe was fun. I tried explaining Tarzan to Benny and he got it up to where I told him about the chimpanzee named Cheetah. At that point he thought I was yanking his chain. I guess I’ll have to find an old vid online to prove I’m not as crazy as I may sound. When the guys all took a turn at trying the Tarzan Jungle Call he gave them all a look that said they needed a check up from the neck up.
We moved from a rock to an island on our next activity. Forbidden Island got its name because it was, once upon at a time, a CIA training location. All kidding aside, that’s really what it was. Because of that, many consider it to be one of the island’s “Must-See” destinations. But in my opinion the real adventure is getting there. It is not the easiest hike I’ve ever been on. A word of warning would have been nice, but I guess a lot of islanders just take it for granted. The guys thought I was going to be upset but, not really. Not when they were as surprised as I was. At least the guy that took us there told us to bring our hiking shoes and not just sandals or flip flops. He just didn’t say why.
The Forbidden Island Hike is tough and pretty much straight downhill (which means coming back is almost straight uphill) and ropes were needed in some places. There was one section that you almost had to do one or two repel-type jumps to get down. Not easy, and I insisted on Benny riding down piggyback, same as Guam, but I liked the physical challenge of it.
Our guide timed it so we would arrive at low tide so we could cross over to the actual Forbidden Island. When we reached the bottom, we snorkeled a bit but not much as despite it being in a protected reef area, and having a blast with all of the tropical fish, the current was pretty strong. Chan wasn’t interested at all, preferring to work with the drone. Diego got waist deep and decided he didn’t mind getting wet but he didn’t want to snorkel. Lev is a strong swimmer but even he was done after thirty minutes. I convinced Benny to get out with him and I took a solo dive to get some pictures of the fish without a lot of bubbles in the way. But even once was enough for me, especially after being tumbled by one wave almost into some jagged rocks underwater.
The guide also took us to a section nearby called “Hidden Forbidden,” which is a hidden alcove that is a little bit like a treasure to open. It’s almost like you are caving/spelunking to get down into this area. When you get in, you see there is a completely clear pool of cold water which he said was rare here because most of the water is lukewarm bathwater temperature and it is because it gets almost no sunlight.
As a side note the guide tried to have some fun at our expense. Apparently the locals are fond of telling children and tourists that you must stay quiet at Forbidden Island or the waves will get larger and rumor has it that you should beseech the jungle to provide you safe journey on the hike when you start. He’s lucky I didn’t punch him because Benny hardly made any noise from that point until we got back to the 4x4. It is one of the reasons why I had him get out of the water with Lev. He was too distracted to really be paying attention to his water safety rules. Oh that guy is so lucky that Benny shook it off. If we have him again, I’m going to dig up some kind of paybacks. I don’t know what yet, but it wasn’t the joke he made it out to be.
Lev said he knew something was going on but hadn’t known what as he hadn’t been there to hear the “legend.” He’d been taking pictures of some coral and cowrie shells for possible filler. I didn’t want to make too much of it but he’s just seven years old even if he has had more adventure than many adults ten times his age.
At least the day closed on a good note. We went snorkeling in the Blue Grotto, another one of those “must do’s” in the tourist glam mags. The Blue Grotto is a cavern that is connected to the ocean by a series of tunnels. The clear blue water provides stunning visibility and is a favorite place for sea turtles to come and hang out and rest.
There were no facilities at the grotto, the only things there besides people was a solar-powered emergency phone and a well-paved road. You access the dive site by going down 100 steps into a natural, well-lit cave. Not artificial lighting at all so you are depending on the weather for how well-lit the diver area is.
From the bottom of the staircase, you step over a narrow but fast stream onto a large, rock that once teetered but has since been secured for the purpose of public safety. Take a giant step off and you are in fifteen-feet deep water facing a 60' deep cavern with 3 separate, naturally lit underwater exits.
If you want to use the exits, it is best to have dive gear unless you are an experienced free diver. I’ve done my fair share starting back in high school, but I haven’t kept it up to any great extent. I did a little when we snorkeled in Hawaii, even letting Benny try a little, but I nixed him swimming in those tunnels. The small bit I did was a little disorienting on the last one. I did get underwater film of a few barracudas, one white tip shark, a few rays, and some other underwater animals, including the sea turtles.
My air conservation was good enough that I swam to the “Bat Cave", a cave entirely underwater & as large as The Grotto. I saw bubble corals, glowing-eyed cave fishes, pink lace cave corals, and then swam out right after seeing two more sharks. I wasn’t scared but no way was I prepared to deal with them without a bang stick which some of the other divers did have. As it was, I surfaced and had to help Diego with a couple of college kids that had swam out of the tunnels and then tried to do the stupid of snorkeling back in. Only very foolish people try that, as re-entry is nearly impossible due to waves and currents. They got lucky and all they did was get banged around. Our guide says a couple of people drown every year trying their luck. When the signs say don’t try it, then don’t try it. It’s for a reason not just to tempt you more.
That pretty much brought our tours to a close. We were back in the suite before I thought to turn the underwater film I’d taken over to Lev who then showed it to Diego. He looked at me and said, “Listen Chica Loca, is that what I think it is?” he asked pointing to the two White Tips from the “Bat Cave”.
“Yes. And that’s why I exited when I did. I’ve swam with sharks plenty of times in Florida, but I don’t make a habit of doing it on purpose.”
He just looked at me, rolled his eyes, and muttered something in Spanish about being too stupid to live. He forgot both Benny and I are fluent until Benny looked at him with the Barrymore laser beams.
I wasn’t feeling too kindly myself. Lev hasn’t picked Spanish up yet. He speaks Spanglish but mostly in self-defense and Diego was spitting it out pretty fast. I don’t make a habit of using Spanish in mixed company just because it is rude. I looked at Benny and asked him calmly, “Go in the bedroom for a minute please. I’ll be there in a sec.”
His fists were already balled up in anger but he did as I asked. I turned to Diego and said, “You got a problem with me, you speak to me privately. I’ve overlooked your cursing and everything else in front of my nephew, gave you some respect as you’ve earned it. What you just did, what you said, was uncalled for.”
“Gus?” Lev said.
“Let me deal with this. I get he can boss us, I don’t have a problem with a chain of command. But I won’t be a chew toy and cursed in Spanish in front of Benny. He’s seven, not seventeen. He don’t need this grief to confuse him.”
“What the hell did you say?” Lev asked Diego.
Diego looked daggers at me, “You trying to cause problems with the team?”
I told him, “You want the respect of being boss all the time, then you earn the respect of being boss all the time. That doesn’t include …”
“Fine!” he snapped before it had to go further. “I forgot the kid could understand what I was saying.”
“But you knew I would understand you.”
He didn’t deny it.
“Diego, I would never intentionally put Benny at risk.”
“You always talkin’ about the kid. What about Lev?”
“I respect and trust Lev more than any other person I’ve known as an adult, and just as much as I did the family that raised me. Don’t even try and get between us because that will cause a fight I guarantee you will not win.”
“Babe? Babe. Calm down. It’s none of his business one way or the other. Look at me …”
I stuffed my excess of Barrymore in the box, drew a deep breath, and then did that very thing surprising the other two in the room.